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Exploring the Beautiful Back Roads of Taitung--County Road 197
Updated：2025-05-23
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County Road 197 stretches nearly 60 kilometers between Beinan Township, just outside Taitung City, and Chishang Township in northern Taitung County. Provincial Highway 9 provides the fastest route between these two points, leaving County Road 197 with little traffic. Due to the lack of vehicles, challenging terrain, and panoramic vistas, this road is a favorite among cycling enthusiasts.
Starting from Beinan Township, the road winds upward past an air force base, offering expansive views of the ocean. Another alternative starting point is picturesque Liji Village, an indigenous Amis community. From here, travelers pass the Xiaohuang Mountain area and the Liji Badlands. Xiaohuang Mountain features mudstone cliffs with deep grooves formed by rainwater erosion, hugging the banks of the Beinan River. The Liji Badlands, spanning two kilometers by one kilometer, were formed through the uplifting of soft marine sediment followed by erosion, resulting in sharp, knifelike ridges. Wooden observation platforms and pathways have been built for visitors to explore this unique terrain.
Continuing northward into Yanping Township, forest lines both sides of the road as the entrance to Luanshan Village, an indigenous Bunun community, comes into view. This village is divided into several neighborhoods, each marked by a wood-carved statue representing a Bunun person in traditional clothing or an aspect of their culture. The community features a large natural pond with a nature trail, referred to as Luanshan Lake. Nearby, an outdoor gathering space hosts important ceremonies such as the Ear Shooting Festival.
Guanshan Township is famous for its 12-kilometer cycling path, which is perfect for families, and its large water park, ideal for cooling off in the summer. It is also well known for its high-quality rice and picturesque rice paddies. During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan (1895-1945), the Hakka people living in western Taiwan’s hilly regions were encouraged to move eastward and develop the area’s agriculture. As a result, Guanshan Township offers not only a serene rural experience but also insights into Hakka culture.
Just past Luanshan Village, at the 37-kilometer marker, begins a rough 14-kilometer stretch of gravel road, which is difficult for both biking and driving. Travelers are advised to connect from Luanshan Village to Provincial Highway 9, then to Guanshan Township before reconnecting to County Road 197. Upon reaching Guanshan, several enjoyable options await. A short drive or ride leads to Haiduan Township and Kanding Village, a Bunun community featuring a woodcarving studio, a traditional botanical garden, a millet workshop, and an exploration of hunting culture. Just north of Guanshan lies the Southern Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 20), where visitors can enjoy natural river hot springs, breathtaking mountain scenery, and dense forests.
Returning to County Road 197 from Guanshan Township, the next point of interest is Dianguang Village, a predominantly Amis community. This peaceful yet welcoming village is nestled against lush green hills. During the Qing dynasty, Amis communities in eastern Taiwan faced threats from advancing Chinese troops. In response, the Amis discovered a type of rock that, when wet, emits combustible vapor. Placing it inside a bamboo tube created a sound effect resembling a cannon blast. While harmless, the bamboo cannon frightened Chinese troops , deterring attacks. A plateau above the community offers gorgeous views and is an ideal location for firing these traditional bamboo cannons.
County Road 197 concludes in Chishang Township. Much like Guanshan Township, a significant portion of its population consists of Hakka people, whose ancestors arrived during the Japanese occupation era to cultivate sugarcane and, eventually, its most renowned crop—paddy rice. The most striking feature here is the unobstructed view of expansive rice paddies stretching toward a backdrop of towering mountains. The most scenic time to witness golden rice spikes swaying in the breeze is just before harvest. There are two harvests annually, one at the end of June and another at the beginning of November.
County Road 197 is often regarded as one of the most picturesque roads in Taitung County—a significant statement, given that Taitung is celebrated for its rich natural and rural beauty. Whether driving or cycling, this road invites travelers to savor the breathtaking charm of Taitung.
Starting from Beinan Township, the road winds upward past an air force base, offering expansive views of the ocean. Another alternative starting point is picturesque Liji Village, an indigenous Amis community. From here, travelers pass the Xiaohuang Mountain area and the Liji Badlands. Xiaohuang Mountain features mudstone cliffs with deep grooves formed by rainwater erosion, hugging the banks of the Beinan River. The Liji Badlands, spanning two kilometers by one kilometer, were formed through the uplifting of soft marine sediment followed by erosion, resulting in sharp, knifelike ridges. Wooden observation platforms and pathways have been built for visitors to explore this unique terrain.
Continuing northward into Yanping Township, forest lines both sides of the road as the entrance to Luanshan Village, an indigenous Bunun community, comes into view. This village is divided into several neighborhoods, each marked by a wood-carved statue representing a Bunun person in traditional clothing or an aspect of their culture. The community features a large natural pond with a nature trail, referred to as Luanshan Lake. Nearby, an outdoor gathering space hosts important ceremonies such as the Ear Shooting Festival.
Guanshan Township is famous for its 12-kilometer cycling path, which is perfect for families, and its large water park, ideal for cooling off in the summer. It is also well known for its high-quality rice and picturesque rice paddies. During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan (1895-1945), the Hakka people living in western Taiwan’s hilly regions were encouraged to move eastward and develop the area’s agriculture. As a result, Guanshan Township offers not only a serene rural experience but also insights into Hakka culture.
Just past Luanshan Village, at the 37-kilometer marker, begins a rough 14-kilometer stretch of gravel road, which is difficult for both biking and driving. Travelers are advised to connect from Luanshan Village to Provincial Highway 9, then to Guanshan Township before reconnecting to County Road 197. Upon reaching Guanshan, several enjoyable options await. A short drive or ride leads to Haiduan Township and Kanding Village, a Bunun community featuring a woodcarving studio, a traditional botanical garden, a millet workshop, and an exploration of hunting culture. Just north of Guanshan lies the Southern Cross-Island Highway (Provincial Highway 20), where visitors can enjoy natural river hot springs, breathtaking mountain scenery, and dense forests.
Returning to County Road 197 from Guanshan Township, the next point of interest is Dianguang Village, a predominantly Amis community. This peaceful yet welcoming village is nestled against lush green hills. During the Qing dynasty, Amis communities in eastern Taiwan faced threats from advancing Chinese troops. In response, the Amis discovered a type of rock that, when wet, emits combustible vapor. Placing it inside a bamboo tube created a sound effect resembling a cannon blast. While harmless, the bamboo cannon frightened Chinese troops , deterring attacks. A plateau above the community offers gorgeous views and is an ideal location for firing these traditional bamboo cannons.
County Road 197 concludes in Chishang Township. Much like Guanshan Township, a significant portion of its population consists of Hakka people, whose ancestors arrived during the Japanese occupation era to cultivate sugarcane and, eventually, its most renowned crop—paddy rice. The most striking feature here is the unobstructed view of expansive rice paddies stretching toward a backdrop of towering mountains. The most scenic time to witness golden rice spikes swaying in the breeze is just before harvest. There are two harvests annually, one at the end of June and another at the beginning of November.
County Road 197 is often regarded as one of the most picturesque roads in Taitung County—a significant statement, given that Taitung is celebrated for its rich natural and rural beauty. Whether driving or cycling, this road invites travelers to savor the breathtaking charm of Taitung.
